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Tucked away in the chaotic maze of neighbourhoods and bustling bazaars that make up Kolkata are scores of obscure oddities and faded relics from the past. As a lifelong rambler with an insatiable sense of curiosity, I find myself returning time and again to this city on the Hooghly to uncover its hidden treasures. Come along on an expedition into the lesser-known nooks of Kolkata that offer intriguing glimpses into the city's eclectic history and culture.
Our first stop is an architectural ghost that stands largely forgotten behind a hospital, overrun with vegetation. Here lie the remains of what was once the magnificent Belgachia Rajbari mansion built in the 19th century by the wealthiest indigo trader of his time, Raja Naba Krishna Deb. The lavish parties hosted by the Raja in this indulgent neoclassical palace were the stuff of legend. Despite its faded glory today, the broken down gatehouse flanked by Corinthian pillars and a few dilapidated walls covered in moss let one imagine the sheer grandeur and decadence that must have characterized this mansion in its heyday. If you peek through the crumbling facade, you can still glimpse traces of the grand central hallway that led to the dance and banquet halls. Every corner echoes with whispers of the ostentatious life of its builder, who spared no expense in the construction using the finest Italian marble and Belgian glass. The Belgachia Rajbari remains a haunting reminder of the aristocratic indulgences of the past.
From the ostentatious indulgences of the elite, we head next to Terreti Bazar, a wholesale market tucked away in the maze of alleys near Potuatola Road. Don't let the initial sight of marigold garlands and flower sellers fool you - Terreti Bazar trades mainly in articles related to death and funeral rites. Generations of shopkeepers here have served the burial needs of the city's diverse communities. The line-up includes everything from custom caskets, crosses, candles, to sober white shrouds used to dress the deceased. On the days following Holi, the bazaar even sells the remnants of pyres and half-burnt bones gathered from the cremation ghats on the Ganga! Walking through this market, one gets a sombre reminder of the city's multiculturalism. You can spot shops catering specifically to Hindu, Christian, Jewish and Muslim funeral requirements side by side. The bazaar provides an unusual sociological insight into how Kolkata residents have catered to death.
Leaving the somber atmosphere behind, let's shift our attention to a lively evening bazaar that sprouts under the College Street flyover. Once the giant sooty pillars of this flyover turn into twinkling fairylights after dusk, the 'Flyover Food Junction' comes alive with the chatter of crowds thronging the stalls. The smoky air fills with the sizzling scent of chops, kebabs and rolls being churned out at a frenetic pace to cater to the hungry shoppers. Locals and tourists jostle for space to try the assortment of street food available. For me, an absolute must-try during a visit here are die-hard College Street indulgences like flaky Indian-Chinese chimey dripping with sauces and juicy kathi rolls stuffed to the brim. Be sure to come with an appetite if you want to truly experience this bustling evening open-air bazaar!
The next hidden treasure on our trail stands dark, abandoned and forgotten beyond a rusted wrought-iron gate in the dusty neighborhood of Khidirpur. Looming eerily before us is the 19th century Calcutta Tercentenary Memorial Church. Built in 1935 to commemorate three centuries since Job Charnock's arrival, this decaying brown brick beauty modeled on England's St Martin Church in Canterbury still retains some remarkable stained glass panels and marble memorials. Though most artifacts have been removed since its closure, the giant pipe organ at the altar and faded frescoes remind one of the scale of its lost glory. If you peek through the cobwebs, many tombstones with epitaphs of former British residents like soldiers, traders and clergymen still lie on the grounds. Local legends speak of spooky happenings and a forlorn ghostly presence that haunts the precincts of this atmospheric ruined church.
Leaving the creepy tales behind, we now pop into a lively but obscure bazaar - Nandaram Market tucked away on Raja Manindra Road. This dusty bazaar contains a treasure trove of musical instruments, records and gramophones that carry the lost echoes of bygone eras of this city. The knowledgeable shopkeepers here trade in rare collectors' items, often able to authenticate the provenance of vintage sitars, tabals, and even quirky rarities like harmonicas, Hawaiian guitars, and accordions. For music lovers, the market provides endless curiosities and rare finds waiting to be dug up. You'll also find old records from classic Bengali and Hindi cinema to forgotten artists. Nandaram Market offers a paradise for the quirky antiquarian to while away hours.
Speaking of the unique and historic, another hidden gem is Bow Barracks nestled in the Burrabazar area. This compact residential zone contains barrack-style housing originally constructed to accommodate American soldiers posted to the city during WWII. The rows of identical apartment blocks were built in 1939 in a circular arc, which earned the name 'Bow Barracks'. While the architecture itself is ordinary, don't miss chatting with the locals and peeking inside the homes. Their colorful interiors buzz with flower garlands, independent artworks and decor crafted from everyday items, contrasting with the plain exteriors. This little enclave developed a unique multicultural make-up over the decades, with many Anglo-Indian families also taking up residence along with immigrant Chinese working in tanneries. Bow Barracks offers a charming snapshot of local history.
No visit to Kolkata's hidden treasures is complete without stopping by the resplendent Marble Palace, an indulgent mansion built in 1835 by the wealthy Bengali merchant Raja Rajendra Mullick. Tucked away behind a humble gate in the narrow alleys of Chorbagan stands this luxurious neoclassical palace, which houses the most eclectic collection of Victorian sculptures, paintings and antiqueWestern furniture in India. The lavish interior boasts Belgian glass chandeliers, marble figurines, and stunning works by Rubens, Reynolds and Titian that are astonishing to view in person. But the pièce de résistance is undoubtedly the small private zoo within the grounds! Here you can spot diverse species like zebras, macaws, peacocks, monkeys and antelopes held in cages and pens. The family's love for collecting exotic animals offers a quirky peek into the indulgences of the elite from a bygone era.
As the afternoon heat starts to fade, we'll take a quick detour to Chitpur Road in the bustling area near Zakaria Street to admire two lesser-known mosques. With striking domes, minarets and Indo-Saracenic architectural frills, both Bibi Fatima and Badamtala mosques are gems hidden in plain sight. Though still operational, they remain largely unnoticed by most passersby and tourists. As we step inside, the soaring prayer halls with calligraphy and geometric motifs transport one back to the vibrant past when this neighborhood formed the cultural nucleus for the city's Muslim community. The azaan ringing poignantly through their compounds carries echoes of that history, even as the area transitions around them.
After this dose of spiritual solace, we'll stop by one final hidden jewel - the wonderfully atmospheric premises of Statesman House, still inhabited by the ghosts of the past. Entering this 19th century building with its deep verandas, club-like reading room and wooden partitions, one is transported back to the days of the illustrious newspaper founded in 1875. The preserved memorabilia museum with antique faxes, presses and typewriters provides a fitting finale to our day of offbeat explorations. The echo of the rotary presses seems to still reverberate through the cavernous basement. Stepping back out into the bustle of Chowringhee, the city suddenly seems to carry more tales hidden within its chaotic rhythm.
As dusk creeps in, I sigh with deep contentment. Our journey today has taken us far from the known, into the lesser-explored nooks of Kolkata. We've encountered architectural ruins, bustling bazaars, forgotten houses of worship, migrant settlements, indulgent mansions and more. Each unique site offers a fascinating snapshot of the city's diverse multicultural history, communities and mishmashed heritage. Kolkata's hidden gems carry the imprints of the people and eras that shaped this city, for those who care to peek behind the curtain. May the wanderer's spirit keep uncovering such secret treasure chests that still lie scattered around this magical metropolis waiting to be found.
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